Etosha

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Etosha National Park is a huge expanse of arid flatlands, where game is sustained by a large number of waterholes, many of which are artificially pumped.

There is no denying that these waterholes can offer some very good game-viewing ... the problem here is visitor traffic. In high season Etosha is self-drive hell, where safari vehicles have to compete at the waterhole carparks with fleets of town cars and airconditioned coaches. It all adds up to probably the most polluted safari experience in Africa.

When we do include Etosha in a trip we always try to inject some quality by staying in one of the neighbouring private concessions to the South and East.