This central area is both the best and the worst of Etosha ...
On the upside, the main pan itself and surrounding waterholes can provide a superb safari experience during the low season Nov/May when traffic is light, but even at this time the best thing to do is to stay outside
South or
East gate and raid the park.
On the downside is the traffic June/Oct. In this area three enormous government restcamps play host to thousands of visitors, in a range of accommodation from avenues of shoddy bungalows to broad municipal campgrounds. Each restcamp has a 'stadium waterhole', which is as you might imagine it ... ranks of guests drinking beer and eating snacks as the 'wild' animals come and go. Not exactly our idea of quality safari.