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The southern town of Butare is known as the 'intellectual capital of Rwanda', which basically means that the university is located here. It is a pleasant enough town with one main boulevard, lined with local hotels, restaurants and businesses ... a nice enough place to pull in for lunch.

There is an excellent historical and cultural museum in town, one of the best in East Africa in fact, well worth a visit.

Out on the Gikongoro road is a rather grim reminder of the genocide, a defunct school whose classrooms are filled with line upon line of skeletons.