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The land to the north and west of Mount Kilimanjaro is a broad steppe of wild bush, Maasai villages and farms, which has been largely overlooked until recently.

Just across the Kenyan border lies one of Africa's most famous game reserves ... Amboseli ... whose classic views of game, plains and Kilimanjaro are architypal safari images.

But where Amboseli is busy with visitors, West Kilimanjaro is virtually empty. There may not be quite the same game densities on this side of the border just yet, but there is a great deal of glorious space.

Despite its rather cheesy name, Hemingway's Camp is our favourite in the area.