Downstream from the falls the Zambezi plunges into a sheer gorge that cuts a deep zigzag groove through the plateau as it heads off eastward towards the distant Indian ocean.
The land above the gorge, although for the most part forested, is suddenly arid and dry, supporting very little game and only a few scattered villages.
The two lodges this end perch dramatically on the edge of the gorge, with dizzying views down to the rapids below.
Songwe Point is a particularly quirky and endearing little place.