Kilimanjaro Shira - August 22nd 2009
I was part of an 11 person group who climbed Kilimanjaro on the Shira route. I have reviewed my climb in sections, with an ending sentence to summarize.
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Booking process: I spent weeks comparing quotes, descriptions & options between companies offering Kili climbs - and booked with ATR on the basis of internet reputation. Yes, they are a bit more expensive, but ATR say it's down to the quality of the trip and treatment of their staff at African Walking Company. This is true. I must thank Clyde Beaty, who I booked my trip with. I spoke to him frequently during the year before going, and he was always on hand to offer advice , whether it was information on equipment or payments. The booking process was smooth, and you'll have no trouble.
- Booking with ATR is smooth, and you always have someone to contact. No Issues.
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Flights: Irrelevant to ATR, as they don't book flights. But I went with KLM via Schiphol and had no trouble.
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Lodge pre/post climb: Ilboru Lodge, Arusha. Basic, but pleasant. Nice pool, free internet, and staff are happy to arrange any extra activities/airport transfers. Lodge is at the end of a very bumpy road, which is off the main road into Arusha. It depends how fussy you are about pre/post climb accommodation comfort - the showers aren't powerful and the power went off nearly every day for about 1/2 an hour, but after climbing everything seems a luxury, and you're not there for the lodge anyway. The area is safe. I walked on my own into Arusha during the day, but got a taxi at night.
- A great base for Kilimanjaro. If you want some luxury, upgrade to another lodge.
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Climb Route: I went with Shira because I wanted a longer amount of time to increase the chance of summiting. Having not done other Kili routes, I can't compare. But there are stunning views, and as I made it to the top, I presume the length in time helped me. I will come onto what the climb is actually like further down.
- Shira is no more difficult that a days walking on Dartmoor/Brecons. If you don't like camping, consider a shorter route. If your aim is to give yourself the best chance of getting to the top - go with Shira.
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Staff on Climb (porters/guides): There can be no fault here. African Walking Company are clearly regarded as one of the best in Kilimanjaro. The staff are proud to work for them, and they have a solid structure in keeping staff (guides work up to levels in expertise, and the staff were proud of this and keen to progress). Nothing was any trouble: filling your water bottle, talking about the route, their lives, altitude sickness etc. You will feel very looked after if booking with ATR. You will genuinely feel like you make solid friends with the guides, swapping contacts and the ending and sharing photos on facebook if you're willing!
- The best. Have full confidence that you will feel safe with the staff.
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What is climbing Kilimanjaro actually like?: ATR's website describe the Shira Route for people who are 'extremely confident' about their fitness. This sounds quite hardcore. Before I left, my training involved spending a Saturday on the Brecon Beacons for about 3 hours walking each week for about 3/4 months before I went. In terms of actual fitness, walking is very different to high-end cardio. I can't jog for 15 minutes without being out of breath. But I can climb Kilimanjaro with no real problems. Fitness for walking is different, it requires stamina and a good frame of mind. Also, a key thing with Kili is that the pace is VERY slow. All the time. From day one the guides, rightly, set the pace which is very slow. So slow, you feel silly. But for anyone who is worried about how hard it will be, don't worry. They make you walk slow so you aren't rushing in altitude. The days vary in time, ease etc. Most days you walk for 4 hours from camp to next camp. Rest for 1/2 hours, then go on an acclimatization walk. These second walks are usually a bit harder (up to the top of a peak, steeper, but much shorter, last 1-2 hours).
The hardest part is the summit night. This is because it's long, it's -21, your water has frozen, you're tired, and you will be likely suffering from AMS in some sort. When the sun starts to rise, everything becomes ok.
The nights of Kili are very cold in August (and no doubt throughout the year). Expect it to be around/below freezing from day one at night. Bring a suitable sleeping bag.
A quick note on food: It's stodge, which you need, but expect porridge, plenty of fruit, eggs and bacon every morning, a meat dish at night, lots of soup, bread. It camping terms, it's very good and you wont go hungry (i'm a 6ft4 built bloke, so you really shouldn't go hungry).
- If you can walk on hills for a full day without suffering too much, you will have no problem in climbing Kili physically.
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Altitude Sickness: One of the big worries amongst all of our climbers. I took diamox from my doctor, but it was well stocked with the guides. The climb in Sat-Sat, and by Tues, I had started taking it. How to describe altitude sickness? I had a mild headache from day one really (you are already quite high compared to live at sea level in the UK). On Tuesday morning, I woke up feeling sick and was worried that I was feeling like this on day 3. I took diamox (125mg twice a day) and it made me feel 100% normal. Simple as that really, it worked for me. All but 1 of our group was on diamox by day 5. Generally on Kilimanjaro, you will feel muggy headed, tired, lethargic - this is expected when you're walking every day, at altitude, in freezing temperatures, without have a shower!
- Do not panic about AMS. Be alert to the symptoms, take diamox if you feel them, and just listen to your body. There are a lot of scare stories online, they only apply to people who don't listen to their body.
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Getting to the top: It's amazing, a huge emotional sense of achievement. You will have bonded with your group.
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Overall: Firstly, booking and climbing this mountain (and booking safaris etc) with ATR will be a good decision. There are other reputable companies (others that use African Walking Company too), but ATR live up to their reputation. Professional, detailed & accurate itineraries. The climb is worth every penny. If you don't get the top, you may leave disappointed, but you wont blame ATR/AWC, they will have provided you with the best chance of summiting.
When i was researching this trip it was helpful to ask someone questions who's been, so I'm happy to answer questions: danjwhitehead@gmail.com.
Good luck, and BOOK IT!
